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Pure Pearls Glossary

Kundan

Jewellery StylesAlso called kundan work, kundan setting, jadau

A setting technique where highly refined gold foil is pressed around stones to hold them, with no prongs or claws.

Kundan refers to the pure gold used, hammered into foil so soft it can be worked cold. Layers of it are packed around each stone until the stone is locked in place.

Because the technique needs no heat at the setting stage, it can hold uncut and fragile stones that a conventional setting would crack.

Jadau is the broader craft that kundan setting belongs to, and it typically combines kundan with meenakari enamel on the reverse.

When you are buying

Look at the reverse. Traditional kundan work is enamelled behind, and a plain or hollow back tells you the piece is a modern reproduction rather than jadau work.

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Kundan and pachi pearl sets

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